"One clove of garlic is not enough for any recipe unless it's a recipe for, 'how to cook one clove of garlic' – even in this case use two"
-Anonymous
I know onions and garlic are often a controversial topic, that is why I have waited until my last week here at Vi to highlight them, hopefully leaving thoughtful discussion but probably creating another headache for David.
You're welcome.
Alliums (onions, garlic, leeks, scallions, ramps) are a staple in every home cook’s kitchen. Whether they’re tucked into a quiche or caramelized and folded into mac and cheese, different types of onions can add immense flavor to any dish the Allium family encompasses garlic, onions, leeks and chives and covers a lot of ground in many cultures. . These humble bulbs have traveled through time, from ancient remedies to gourmet staples.
Garlic and onions are staples in classic traditional recipes. For example, the French dish Confit de Canard highlights how garlic complements duck's rich flavor, showcasing its ability to elevate a dish. In Indian cuisine, the celebrated dish Biryani combines garlic, onions, and fragrant spices to create a robust blend that serves as a culinary identity marker for the region.
A few years ago I had a Black Garlic Ice Cream that was pretty delicious but I didn't think that our residents would appreciate it the same way. Maybe ask Anna to try it out.
Have you ever wondered about why they make us cry? Onions absorb sulfur from the soil, which helps form a class of volatile organic molecules called amino acid sulfoxides; they form sulfenic acids. When you cut an onion, you break cells, releasing their contents. Enzymes that were kept separate now are free to mix with the sulfenic acids to produce propanethiol S-oxide, a volatile sulfur compound that wafts upward toward your eyes. This gas reacts with the water in your tears to form sulfuric acid. The sulfuric acid burns, stimulating your eyes to release more tears to wash the irritant away.
Cooking the onion inactivates the enzyme, so while the smell of cooked onions may be strong, it doesn’t burn your eyes. Aside from wearing safety goggles, a snorkel mask or running a fan, you can keep from crying by refrigerating your onion before cutting it (slows reactions and changes the chemistry inside the onion) or just using a very sharp knife. Warning-Wearing a snorkel mask while using a sharp knife can be very tricky and may lead to loss of blood and or fingertips. Incidentally if you are worried about garlic or onions on your breath chew a piece of parsley at the end of your meal. It doesn't really work but people will be wondering why you are doing this rather than noticing your bad breath.
Throughout history, garlic and onions have played significant roles in herbal medicine and folklore. Ancient Egyptians revered garlic, seeing it as a source of strength and vitality. The Pharaoh Cheops paid workers who built the Great Pyramid in onions, garlic, and parsley and onions were painted on the walls of the pyramids. Mummies were even buried with onions. In ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics, they were symbols of eternity due to their circular shape and layered structure.
The Greeks regarded onions as a source of strength, famously feeding them to gladiators to enhance their physical prowess and maybe give a psychological edge over non-onion eating foes.
What about Vampires? This tradition can be traced back to medieval Europe, where storied illusions — and illness — ran rampant. For instance, porphyria, a rare blood disease that may become intensified by the consumption of garlic, results in pale skin, a distinctive characteristic of folkloric vampires. Many people also believed garlic possessed potent protective properties to ward off evil. As such, people not only ate more garlic, but they also hung garlic bulbs in their homes, displayed them around doorways and windows, and wore them as amulets. Truth be told, garlic does indeed contain an antibiotic: allicin, which is activated when cloves are minced or chopped. Word spread that the pungent aroma of the health-giving compound was toxic to vampires, who were known for their acute senses. Additionally, when garlic is eaten, it releases an odor through the skin and breath, one allegedly strong enough to deter vampires from getting too close to their potential victims. In essence, the root vegetable was considered a safeguard against the undead — and ailments. When was the last time you saw a vampire around here? See, it's working.
In Chinese medicine, garlic is a well-known remedy for various illnesses, including respiratory conditions and digestive issues. Folk traditions often saw garlic as a protective charm; many cultures believed that hanging garlic at doorways would ward off evil spirits and promote safety. Traditionally, spring onions are considered a warming food that can help fight off the cold and dampness of fall and winter.
Here are some helpful definitions.
Yellow Onion – Yellow onions are considered by many to be all-purpose. This onion has a delightful balance of astringency and sweetness in its flavor and becomes sweeter the longer they cook. Yellow onions are ideal for caramelization. However, when served raw, they may taste harsh to some diners.
Sweet Onions – Includes Vidalia, Walla Walla, Spanish, and Maui varieties. These onions are grown in low-sulfur soil, which reduces their intensity and allows the sweet starch to shine through when cooking. I like to use these raw in salads, as they are more expensive than yellow onions they should be highlighted and allowed to stand out.
Shallots -Shallots have a mild onion flavor. These bulb-shaped alliums taste like a garlic-onion hybrid. In French cooking, shallots are used in vinaigrettes and sauces, as well as on top of steak. Any cooked recipe that calls for garlic can be assumed to also call for shallots in my kitchen. You can use them with impunity as they are not only mild, but fancy.
Scallions-also called bunching onions or spring onions there are several varieties that can be used interchangeably. The white bottoms are more mild, while the greens are more robust. Green Garlic can also be used in place of these but there will be a decidedly more interesting flavor.
Garlic- The holy grail of cuisine. This pungent clove can take many forms and is very different depending on how it is handled. Slow roasted garlic is soft and buttery, while raw garlic can be loud and demanding of attention. Black Garlic is a fermented variety that has a very mild and even sweet flavor. Elephant Garlic is very large with a light green color when cooked, and is actually considered a Leek by botanists but not by chefs.
Leeks- Resemble a very large scallion. Leeks were eaten in ancient Rome and regarded as superior to garlic and onions. Raw leek was the favorite vegetable of the Emperor Nero, who consumed it in soup or oil, believing it beneficial to the quality of his voice. This earned him the nickname "Porrophagus" or "Leek Eater, which probably has nothing to do with his notably brutal reign or his affinity for the violin. In our kitchen leeks are soaked in water several times to remove grit, the whites are used in cooking and the green tops are used for stocks or occasionally fried for a crispy garnish.
Anyone who says they don't like onions may have never tried this recipe, one of our favorites at Vi in the past and hopefully the future as well.
French Onion Soup
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3-4 pounds medium yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced
¾ teaspoon sea salt
1½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1½ tablespoons tamari or soy
1½ tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
6 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons all-purpose white flour
2 cups dry red wine-- decent but not your best
6 cups Beef broth
1 to 4 glasses of Burgundy-good quality, divided
Topping
Baguette slices
Gruyère cheese, aged Cheddar, and/or provolone
Fresh thyme
Pinch of red pepper flakes, optional
Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions, salt, and several grinds of pepper and toss to combine. Reduce the heat to low and cook , stirring every few minutes, or until the onions are very soft. The onions will reduce and start to sweat out their moisture as well as their sugars. Taste the wine. It's good isn't it? Keep stirring the onions as long as you can stand but at least 45 minutes or two full glasses of wine. The color should be a dark gold, almost brown. Add the vinegar, tamari, thyme, and garlic and stir. Sprinkle the flour on the onions, stir, and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the wine and cook 2 minutes, or until evaporated. Not the good wine, that should be in your glass. Add the broth and simmer over medium heat for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 450°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the baguette slices, topped with cheese, on the baking sheet and bake until the slices are toasted and the cheese is melted, 8 to 10 minutes.
Ladle the soup into ramekins or bowls and top each with a toasted baguette piece, fresh thyme, and a pinch of red pepper flakes, if desired.
Serve with any remaining Burgundy to good friends who appreciate these things.
This is my last week at Vi, not to get too mushy but I will miss all of you. I will be at the Culinary Corner on Monday at 10 am and there is a get together on Thursday in the living room at 3 pm with cake. I hope to see all of you this week
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